ard as it is to believe, the Gen V small-block—the “LT” family—has been in production for nearly a decade, after debuting in 2013 in the redesigned 2014 Silverado. Shortly after that came the LT1 versions in the C7 Corvette and Gen 6 Camaro.

The LT engine architecture has its roots in the LS family that established unprecedented performance benchmarks and reinvigorated hot rodding, with the same sort of fundamental shift that could be attributed to the original small-block. While there is a lineage from LS to LT, the two branches of the small-block tree are significantly varied.

There are essentially no interchangeable parts between the LS and LT families and all LT engines feature direct fuel injection. With the proliferation of LT engines increasing in production vehicles and as swap material for hot rods, trucks, and Pro Touring machines, it’s worth stepping back for a moment to survey the landscape to discuss the engines out there and where they fit in the LT hierarchy.

ucking and flush mounting bumpers is a common modification at most pro-level fab shops. That’s not to say it’s unattainable on the average build. The aftermarket might be one option, but with the right guide you can’t beat the fit and finish of a DIY job.

We’re in Lincoln, Nebraska, catching up with the pros at No Coast Custom & Rod Shop. They let us take a peek at their custom 1969 Camaro project and shared a few tricks that would shed some light on any ambitious do-it-yourselfer. Lead fabricator Matt Gooder and owner Ben Vaneperen are always finding new ways to play with metal. They look for a clean aesthetic and love making subtle little tweaks. We dropped in just after they finished reworking the lower valance. You’ll notice those factory bumper mount windows have been filled. Here’s what they did.

A little side note: Before diving in, make sure the fenders, doors, and hood are in their final resting position. As with any fabrication work, build the foundation first and finish building out from there. The must-have tools: a welder, tape measure, your favorite hammer, and a metal saw blade of choice.

egardless what model of Chevrolet performance vehicle you drive, the main link to transferring its power resides in the back half of your ride. Once the goods move through your driveshaft, it’s all up to the rearend, suspension, and brakes to make the magic happen. The last thing you need is a weak link when you’re ready to hit the go pedal on the street or track. If you’re driving an original car or one restored to factory specs, its fine to rely on the setup that was engineered for the driveline combination as the car rolled off the production line. However, if you’re planning to up the ante in the horsepower department with more cubic inches, a supercharger, or even turbos, it’s best to map out a plan to handle the increase as it moves out back. It’s a formula that’s served hot rodders for decades where the front-to-rear performance balance needs to be rock solid.

ne of the easiest and earliest methods of automotive personalization comes in the form of tires and wheels. Aftermarket rolling stock originally offered a combination of upgraded strength, convenience, and appearance. The custom wheel industry kicked off in the racing world, but by the late ’60s, aftermarket wheels were commonly used as an upgrade for regular street cars. You could buy them through many mail-order companies, such as JC Whitney, or you could even buy them through major retailers, such as Sears, JCPenney, and more. As aftermarket wheels became more affordable, everything from Corvairs to Corvettes had many options for custom fitments. Dozens of brands gave customers a wide range of styles, finishes, and sizes to fit their needs.

We could write a book about the history of the aftermarket wheel and the major players in the industry, but the purpose of this article is to educate you on the various types of wheels that you may stumble across at a swap meet. While you may be fortunate enough to find some cool Halibrand wheels, or magnesium American’s at a swap meet, you’ll likely be met with a gigantic price tag. These wheels are like gold to old-school drag racers and hot rodders. You may also find that front runners (wheels that measure 3 to 5 inches in width) bring more than the more common 6-, 7- and 8-inch-wide sizes. It’s easy to get a little too excited by the high prices on eBay or at swap meets, so control your spending habits and do your homework before you unload a bunch of cash on a set of wheels.

There are lots of important factors to remember when searching a swap meet for vintage wheels. The obvious things, like size and bolt pattern, can be checked with a pocket-sized tape measure, so don’t leave home without one. Always check the condition of the wheel thoroughly, but understand that you’re taking a gamble when buying vintage wheels. There could be hidden damage, such as bends or cracks in the material. You’re dealing with fatigued metals that could be upwards of 60 years old, so be prepared for potential heartache if your wheels end up as garage decoration. On the bright side, the perfect set of legit vintage wheels can take your old-school muscle car to the next level. Let’s dig into the fun of scrounging around at a swap meet, and take a look at some great vintage wheels that may be awesome additions to your project car or parts collection.

ave you ever played the cylinders game with your car buddies? It counts and includes all functioning cylinders residing in your garage. One word of caution. Don’t play this game with Gary Kollofski if his 1957 Chevy is in the vicinity.

Kollofski is a fan of big cubic inches. But his predilections do not fall within the normal confines of stroker big-block Chevys or even tall-deck monsters that Pro Mod and tractor pullers have made famous. Kollofski has always followed a different alchemist’s path. If his name sounds familiar and you were reading car magazines in 1977 you might remember his bad-to-the-bone black 1955 Chevy that graced the pages of Hot Rod magazine. Many consider that car as among the progenitors of the Pro Street movement. Others remain simply awed by its sinister appearance that, had it survived, would still draw crowds today.

So, after building another 1955 Chevy a few years ago using an obscure Italian marine V-12, Kollofski and coconspirator/fabricator Dale Pelvit tumbled upon a plan that fully intended to raise the high-water mark for outrageousness. The dictionary positions that word as somewhere between startlingly bad and very unusual. Kollofski and Pelvit call it the W24.