With 436 ci, natural aspiration, and EFI, the project engine we’re going to discuss in this story spun to 7,300 rpm and lit up the dyno with 708 hp and 614 lb-ft of torque. That was with a comparatively small camshaft and a pump gas–friendly compression ratio.

Those peak numbers are impressive, but perhaps more so was the fact that its glorious, neck-tugging torque came in immediately in the powerband: 451 lb-ft at only 3,500 rpm. That’s only 19 lb-ft short of the factory LS7 engine’s peak torque of 470 lb-ft, which occurs at 4,800 rpm.

here comes a time when every gearhead wants more from their engine. Sure, we vowed we’d leave it stock. Then we threw the entire catalog of bolt-on parts at it. And still, we want more. The high-flow intake manifold helped. The big-tube headers did too. But when it comes to truly awakening an engine’s power potential, it’s time for a camshaft.

If the cylinder heads are considered the lungs of the engine, the camshaft is undoubtedly its brain. Not only will it determine how much power and torque an engine will make, it controls at what point in the powerband they occur. Camshaft choice will also dictate idle quality, piston-to-valve clearance, and many more variables. That means choosing the right camshaft for your application is immensely important.

Due to the unfailing popularity of LS engines, from late-model OEM vehicles to street rods to retro-swapped muscle cars it seemed a natural platform to focus on when setting some guidelines on just how to pick one. For some expert advice on the subject we turned to Brian Tooley of Brian Tooley Racing (BTR) who specializes in LS camshafts, springs, and other performance valvetrain hardware.

or the student of internal combustion, you’ve likely heard the oft-repeated line that an internal combustion engine is nothing more than an air pump. The reason that’s a cliché is because it’s true. The more air an engine can capture in the cylinders and then squeeze into making cylinder pressure, the more horsepower and torque it will make.

The title for this story might lead you to believe this is a treatise on valve seat angles. But it’s not. This story will instead focus on a far less popular but equally important topic of valve angles. We’re going to use the small-block Chevy family as our point of reference for this story because this engine has been around for over 60 years and has experienced a huge transition in valve angles.

Let’s start with its definition as the angle created between the centerline of the valve and the centerline of the cylinder. For the traditional small-block Chevy, its original production 23 degrees first appeared in the original 265ci small-block in 1955 and has remained that same number through countless millions of Chevrolet production engines.

hen it comes time to sorting out the exhaust system on that muscle car or street machine, most of us are concerned with two things: sound and performance. But finding that aggressive tone without resulting in so much excessive drone that your fillings fall out can be a challenge. Larger mufflers tend to provide a more mellow tone, but there isn’t always the room to mount such a can underneath that A-body. And choking down that 572ci big-block with the wrong muffler is so counterproductive we don’t even need to mention that one!

So, like many things in our hobby, designing the right exhaust system to match your vehicle often comes down to a compromise between what you want, what will fit, and what the engine wants.

For a lot of car guys, building an exhaust consists of a trip to the local muffler shop, picking out a pair of chambered cans, and leaving their ride in the hands of the guy with the welder. A dual set of aluminized pipes is usually the result with the mufflers hanging in the easiest spot, without regard to problems like in-cabin drone and increased passenger compartment temperatures due to their location. For most of us, there really isn’t another option, unless you’re capable of welding and have access to a lift. But if those two points are not a hindrance, there are a number of options available that can result in a much nicer exhaust system.

very car guy on this planet has heard about barn finds and amazing discoveries of true survivors. This 1957 Chevy Bel Air isn’t one of those cars—it lived most of its life outdoors, in the Southeast, so you know where this is headed. It didn’t take long for the top to start leaking, which led to the demise of the floorpan, trunkpan, and most of the other panels. After years of neglect, the car was dragged out of the field and taken to Automotive Sandblasting & Restoration (ASR) in Friendsville, Tennessee, for a much-needed makeover.