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Tuck & Flush
Pro Tips on How to Tuck a 1969 Camaro Front Bumper
TEXT & PHOTOS BY Jason Lubken
T

ucking and flush mounting bumpers is a common modification at most pro-level fab shops. That’s not to say it’s unattainable on the average build. The aftermarket might be one option, but with the right guide you can’t beat the fit and finish of a DIY job.

We’re in Lincoln, Nebraska, catching up with the pros at No Coast Custom & Rod Shop. They let us take a peek at their custom 1969 Camaro project and shared a few tricks that would shed some light on any ambitious do-it-yourselfer. Lead fabricator Matt Gooder and owner Ben Vaneperen are always finding new ways to play with metal. They look for a clean aesthetic and love making subtle little tweaks. We dropped in just after they finished reworking the lower valance. You’ll notice those factory bumper mount windows have been filled. Here’s what they did.

A little side note: Before diving in, make sure the fenders, doors, and hood are in their final resting position. As with any fabrication work, build the foundation first and finish building out from there. The must-have tools: a welder, tape measure, your favorite hammer, and a metal saw blade of choice.

Measuring the front bumper of a 1969 Camaro
1. For reference, start by taking a few measurements. We’re using this factory 1969 Camaro bumper to show you where a guy would start. Measure between the grille and bumper edge to decide how much you want to tuck the bumper into the grille. You’ll notice how a factory bumper sits low and the top edge is inconsistent along the grille. Our measurements varied between a 3/8 to 3/4 inch.
Measuring between the fender and bumper edge.
2. Also, get a measurement between the fender and bumper edge. We came up with about a 1/2 inch on each side. Your measurements may vary depending on factory versus aftermarket bumpers and fenders.
Note the section marked "cut out."
3. Note the section marked “cut out.” If you’re running the factory brackets as shown (we are not), reference your first set of measurements to cut, section, and re-weld. Your cuts should be made on the flat portion of the bracket.
New mounts custom build by Matt Gooder
4. Matt Gooder took it a step further by custom-building new mounts that continue the look of the aftermarket Roadster Shop frame. Factory brackets could easily be used for anyone looking to utilize the stock mounting locations. Gooder built these using simple boxing plate templates taken from measurements off the factory brackets. He drilled and tapped them with two 7/16-inch mount locations.
Under the frame
5. A look under the frame, the mounts are bolted in place inside the front of the framehorns. The mount flanges at the top left will accept new bumper hardware.
Valence was drilled to match the 4 1/8-inch mount centers
6. The valance was drilled to match the 4 1/8-inch mount centers on the new bracket flanges.
Placing the bumper into place
7. Once we located our mounting brackets, we rough-fit the bumper in place using a plumb bob. A laser level would also work here, but the goal is to match the center grille peak to the center of the bumper.
Person welding the bumper
8. We also used 1/8-inch wood shims to maintain a consistent edge while clamping the bumper in place before we took our measurements to locate the mounts.
Welded 6x2 1/8-inch plates
9. Gooder welded two 6×2 1/8-inch plates on each end with two 3/8-inch studs that align with the bracket mounts. This is great structurally, and if shims are needed to fine-tune any gap issues, adjustments can be easily made.
Bumpers laid on a work table
10. After we were happy with the general fit, we made our cuts. Gooder removed both ends while ensuring the cuts were made on a flat portion of the bumper. He also removed all the factory mount tabs and cut 1 inch off the bottom edge along the license plate recess, leaving a nice straight edge across the bottom.
Pie-cut in the center peak of bumper using a bandsaw
11. To get a consistent line along the grille edge, Gooder also made a pie-cut in the center peak of the bumper. This allowed him to bend and shape the bumper as needed to match the grille.
Removing 1/4 inch from the bumper ends
12. Next, we removed 1/4 inch from each end to tuck in our bumper ends
Fitting the bumper ends into place
13. Fit the ends into place. This happens to be an aftermarket bumper; the corner radius may vary depending on fender-to-bumper fitment. This took some finesse work to dial in. Gooder started by tracing the edge radius to the fender.
Reshaping the bumper sockets
14. Then, using a small cut-off wheel, he reshaped the bumper pockets to match and continued rechecking fitment.
Reworking the corners of the bumper
15. In addition to reshaping the fender pocket, Gooder reworked the corners of the bumper with a bit of massaging. It’s helpful to make relief cuts before reshaping as needed. Finally, weld and smooth until the proper fit is achieved.
Welding the bumper ends into place
16. After the bumper ends were shaped, Gooder tacked them into place before the bumper was removed for final welding.
Fender end piece
17. The grille was removed to avoid any heat warpage before Gooder final-welded and smoothed each fender pocket.
Rear side of the Camaro with the bumper laid on a work table
18. The factory carriage holes and center peak were welded and ground smooth to complete the final shaping to the bumper.
Completed bumpers on the Camaro
19. Finally installed, the endgaps are much cleaner and the bumper edge is now consistent with the grille.
SOURCES
No Coast Custom & Rod Shop
(402) 325-8686
nocoastcustomandrodshop.com
Roadster Shop
(847) 949-7637
roadstershop.com
Speedway Motors
(800) 979-0122
speedwaymotors.com
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